Whether you are a seasoned climber or just starting out, understanding the different types of climbing holds is crucial for improving your skills and technique. Climbing holds are the artificial grips that are attached to climbing walls, allowing climbers to navigate and ascend the wall. Each hold provides a unique challenge and requires different techniques to navigate.
There are several types of climbing holds, each with its own name and characteristics. Crimps, for example, are small, flat holds that require a strong grip and precise footwork. Slopers, on the other hand, are smooth and rounded holds that require a different type of grip and body positioning. Jugs are large, easy-to-grab holds that are ideal for beginners or for resting on longer climbs.
Other types of climbing holds include pinches, which require the climber to squeeze the hold between their thumb and fingers, pockets, which are small holes in the wall that require the climber to insert their fingers or thumb, and gastons, which require the climber to pull against the hold using their palm or the back of their hand.
Understanding the different types of climbing holds is not only important for improving your technique, but it also allows you to communicate and share beta with other climbers. Knowing the names and characteristics of different holds will help you understand and effectively describe different climbing routes and problems. So whether you are training at a climbing gym or tackling outdoor routes, take the time to familiarize yourself with the various types of climbing holds and their names.
Understanding Climbing Holds
When it comes to indoor climbing, understanding different types of climbing holds is crucial. Climbing holds are the grips or holds that climbers use to ascend the walls. They come in various shapes, sizes, and textures, each designed to offer a different climbing experience.
Types of Climbing Holds:
Jugs: Jugs are large, easy-to-grip holds that are typically found on beginner routes. They offer a comfortable handhold and provide climbers with a positive grip.
Crimps: Crimps are small, shallow holds that require a lot of finger strength to hold onto. They have a very small surface area, making them challenging to grasp.
Pinches: Pinches are holds that require two or more fingers to pinch together. They often resemble the shape of a ball or an hourglass and can be challenging to hang onto.
Slopers: Slopers are rounded holds that lack any positive edge or indentation. Climbing on slopers requires a lot of body tension and balance as the grip relies on friction and body positioning.
Edges: Edges are small, thin holds that require finger strength and precision to use. They often have a sharp edge or ridge that climbers can use to grip.
Tips for Climbing Holds:
1. It’s important to warm up your fingers and forearms before attempting difficult holds to prevent injuries.
2. Use proper hand and foot placement to maintain balance and maximize your grip on holds.
3. Experiment with different climbing techniques and body positions to find the most effective way to use each type of hold.
4. Practice grip strength exercises to improve your finger strength and endurance.
5. Pay attention to the textures of the holds. Some may be smooth and require more friction, while others may have more texture for a better grip.
By understanding the different types of climbing holds and practicing on each of them, climbers can improve their overall climbing skills and tackle more challenging routes.
Types of Climbing Holds
Climbing holds come in various shapes and sizes, each serving a different purpose in climbing routes. Here are some common types of climbing holds:
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Jug | A large, deep hold that allows climbers to grab it easily with their whole hand. Jugs are often used as starting holds or rest points. |
| Crimp | A small, shallow hold that requires climbers to grip it using their fingertips. Crimps are challenging and require finger strength. |
| Sloper | A hold with a smooth and rounded surface that requires climbers to rely on friction and body tension to stay on. Slopers are often sloping downwards. |
| Pinch | A hold that requires climbers to squeeze it between their thumb and fingers. Pinches come in various shapes, such as wide pinches and narrow pinches. |
| Sidepull | A hold that requires climbers to pull sideways using their body tension. Sidepulls can be used as intermediates or challenges in climbing routes. |
| Gaston | A hold that requires climbers to pull against it using the open palm or the side of the hand. Gastons are often used in traverses or when changing directions. |
| Undercling | A hold that requires climbers to pull upwards using an underhand grip. Underclings can be found on roofs or on vertical walls with ledges. |
| A small, rounded hole that climbers can sink their fingers or thumb into. Pockets come in different depths and can be challenging to hold onto. |
These are just a few examples of the many types of climbing holds available. Climbing routes often incorporate a variety of hold types to create diverse and challenging climbing experiences.
Crimp Holds
Crimp holds are one of the most challenging types of climbing holds. They are characterized by their small size and sharp edges.
To crimp on a hold means to grip it with your fingertips by using only the first joint of your fingers, while keeping your thumb on the opposite side of the hold for added stability. This technique requires a lot of finger and hand strength, as well as precise footwork and body positioning.
Crimp holds come in various shapes and sizes, including edges, pockets, and pinches. Edges are narrow and typically have a flat or slightly rounded surface. Pockets are concave holds that require you to use your fingertips to grip the inside of the hold. Pinches are holds that require you to squeeze them between your thumb and fingers.
When climbing on crimp holds, it’s important to warm up properly and gradually build up your finger strength. Be careful not to overstrain your tendons, as crimping puts a lot of stress on them.
Remember to always use proper climbing technique and listen to your body. If a crimp hold feels too difficult or uncomfortable, it’s best to move on to another hold or adjust your grip.
Developing proficiency in climbing on crimp holds takes time and practice, but it can greatly improve your overall climbing ability and open up new routes and challenges.
Sloper Holds
Sloper holds are a type of climbing hold that lack any positive or incut edges. These holds are rounded and smooth, making them difficult to grip and requiring climbers to rely on friction and body positioning to stay on the wall. Slopers can come in a variety of shapes and angles, from shallow slopes to almost flat surfaces.
When climbing on slopers, it is important to use proper body position and technique. The key to successfully climbing on slopers is to maximize the surface area of contact between your hand and the hold. This can be done by using open-hand technique, where the palm of your hand provides the most contact area.
Because sloper holds are often challenging to grip, they are commonly used to test a climber’s upper body strength and body tension. Climbing on slopers requires a combination of strength, balance, and coordination.
When training on slopers, climbers can focus on improving their grip strength by incorporating exercises such as finger hangs and pinch grips. Additionally, practicing on slopers can also help climbers develop a better sense of body awareness and balance.
Overall, sloper holds provide a unique challenge and add variety to climbing routes. They require climbers to rely on technique and balance rather than relying solely on strength, making them a great tool for improving climbing skills and building overall body strength.
Jug Holds
Jug holds, also known as big holds or positive holds, are large and easy-to-grip climbing holds that are ideal for beginners or those looking for a relaxing climb. These holds are usually rounded or comfortable to hold with a full hand or even multiple fingers.
Due to their size and ease of use, jug holds are often used to start or finish climbing routes, providing a sense of security and confidence for climbers. They can also be used strategically as resting or recovery holds during a climb.
One of the advantages of jug holds is that they are more forgiving compared to other types of holds. This means that climbers can relax their grip and rely on the positive grip of the jug hold for stability and support. This can be particularly beneficial for climbers who are new to the sport or have weaker fingers and grip strength.
Jug holds come in various shapes and sizes, ranging from large rounded jugs to smaller, more incut jugs. Some jug holds may feature additional texture or features such as grooves or indentations to provide extra grip. These variations can add an element of challenge or variety to climbing routes.
When using jug holds, climbers should still be mindful of proper technique and body positioning. While jug holds are generally easier to grip, climbers should aim to engage their core and maintain good body posture to ensure stability and prevent injuries.
Overall, jug holds are an important component of climbing routes, providing climbers with a positive and secure grip. They are especially useful for beginners or those looking for a less physically demanding climb. So, if you see a route with plenty of jug holds, don’t hesitate to give it a try!
Pinch Holds
Pinch holds are a type of climbing hold that require a strong grip and coordination. These holds are designed to mimic the action of pinching something with your hand. They are generally larger, with a wide surface area that allows climbers to grab them with their fingertips and push against them with their thumbs.
Pinch holds can come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but they all require a similar technique to use effectively. Climbers must often rely on their upper body strength and finger strength to maintain their grip on pinch holds, as they can be challenging to hold onto for extended periods of time.
Some common types of pinch holds include:
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Block pinch | A rectangular hold with a wide surface area, allowing climbers to pinch it with both hands. |
| Sloping pinch | A rounded hold that slopes downwards, making it more difficult to maintain a grip. |
| Offset pinch | A hold with an angled surface, requiring climbers to adjust their grip in order to maintain balance. |
| Narrow pinch | A hold with a narrow surface area, making it more challenging to grip. |
| Jug pinch | A large, comfortable hold that allows climbers to wrap their hands around it and pull. |
When climbing pinch holds, it is important to pay attention to your hand position and maintain a strong, controlled grip. Practicing on a variety of pinch holds can help improve your finger and hand strength, as well as your overall climbing technique.
Pocket Holds
Pocket holds are small, concave holds that are commonly found on climbing walls. They are usually shaped like shallow pockets or depressions in the rock. These holds require strong finger strength and precise technique to use effectively.
There are several different types of pocket holds, including:
- Single pocket holds: These holds have a single concave area and require climbers to use only one finger or multiple fingers inside the pocket.
- Double pocket holds: These holds have two separate concave areas that can be used individually with different fingers or together with multiple fingers.
- Sloping pocket holds: These holds are shaped like regular pockets but have a sloping or angled surface, making them more challenging to grip.
- Thin pocket holds: These holds have a shallow depth and require climbers to use precise finger placement and grip strength to stay on the wall.
- Deep pocket holds: These holds have a deeper concave area and require climbers to use their entire hand to grip and pull.
Pocket holds are often used to test climbers’ finger and grip strength. They can be found on challenging routes or boulder problems where climbers need to rely on their finger strength to complete the climb. It is important for climbers to train specifically for pocket holds to improve their finger strength and grip technique.
Gaston Holds
Gaston holds are a type of climbing hold that require a different technique to grip and maneuver. These holds typically have a flat surface with a small outward-facing lip. The name “gaston” comes from the French verb “gant,” which means glove. These holds are named this way because the technique used to grip them is similar to the way one would don a glove.
Gaston holds often require climbers to use the side of their hand or fingers to apply pressure and get a secure grip. The outward-facing lip can be used to leverage against or pull on to help maintain balance and move up the climbing wall.
These holds are commonly used in routes that require precise movements and balance. They can be found in a variety of shapes and sizes, including small crimps and large jugs. The placement and orientation of gaston holds can vary, adding an additional challenge to climbers as they encounter them.
Here are some common types of gaston holds:
| Type | Description | Image |
|---|---|---|
| Crimps | Small, narrow gaston holds that require precise finger strength to grip. | |
| Jugs | Large, deep gaston holds that allow climbers to get a full hand grip. | |
| Pockets | Gaston holds with indentations or hollows that require precise hand placement. |
When encountering gaston holds, climbers may need to shift their body position and use their weight to maintain balance and control. The technique used to grip these holds can vary depending on the specific route and the climber’s preference.
Developing strength and flexibility in the fingers and wrists can be beneficial for climbers who frequently encounter gaston holds. Practice on these holds can help improve technique and increase overall climbing ability.
Overall, gaston holds add an interesting challenge to climbing routes and require climbers to adopt a specific technique to successfully navigate them.
Mono/Pocket-Sized Holds
Mono or pocket-sized holds are small, single-handed grips that require strong finger strength and precision to use effectively. They are typically found on steep or overhanging walls and come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
These holds are named after their characteristic shallow, round pockets that resemble the opening of a pocket, which can only accommodate one or two fingers at a time. The size of the pocket can range from just a few millimeters to a couple of centimeters, making it necessary to use a crimping technique to hold onto them.
To climb using mono/pocket-sized holds, climbers must rely heavily on their finger strength and technique. This type of hold requires a lot of forearm and finger power and can pose a challenge to climbers who are not accustomed to using them.
Depending on the difficulty of the route or problem, mono/pocket-sized holds can be sequenced in a variety of ways. Climbers may encounter a series of smaller pockets that require them to make precise and controlled moves, or they may encounter larger pockets that allow multiple fingers to fit in comfortably.
When using mono/pocket-sized holds, climbers must be mindful of the strain these holds can put on their fingers and tendons. It is important to warm up properly before attempting to climb on these holds and to avoid putting excessive strain on the fingers to prevent injury.
Overall, mono/pocket-sized holds add an additional level of challenge to climbing routes and bouldering problems. They test a climber’s finger strength, technique, and ability to control their body while on steep or overhanging terrain. Mastering the use of mono/pocket-sized holds can greatly enhance a climber’s skill and ability to tackle difficult routes.
Hueco Holds
Hueco holds, also known as pockets, are a type of climbing hold that are characterized by a concave depression. These holds are typically found in limestone and sandstone rock formations and are commonly used in sport climbing.
Hueco holds come in a variety of sizes and shapes, ranging from small indentations to deep pockets that can accommodate an entire hand. The depth of the hueco hold can greatly impact the difficulty of a climbing route, as deeper pockets tend to provide more secure hand placements.
There are several different types of hueco holds, including:
- Crimpy Pockets: These hueco holds feature small, sharp edges that require precise finger placement.
- Sloping Pockets: These hueco holds have rounded edges and offer less secure hand placements.
- Jug Pockets: These hueco holds have large, comfortable depressions that can accommodate the entire hand.
- Pinch Pockets: These hueco holds require a pinching motion and often feature narrow, vertical slots.
Hueco holds can provide a unique challenge for climbers, as they require different hand positions and techniques compared to other types of climbing holds. They can be especially challenging when climbing on steep or overhanging routes where body positioning and balance become crucial.
When climbing on hueco holds, it is important to maintain a strong grip and be mindful of body position. Proper technique and body positioning can help climbers maximize their strength and reach when navigating hueco holds.
Overall, hueco holds offer a diverse and exciting climbing experience, allowing climbers to test their skills and adapt to different types of holds and rock formations.